Your Complete Guide to Werner-Boyce Salt Springs State Park

At 8:30 AM on Fourth of July, Werner-Boyce Salt Springs State Park seemed to still sleep as if trying to recover from a late Friday night out. Cooling Gulf coast breezes barely made a whisper in the trees. The air laid heavy and already thick with the promise of July’s oppressive heat. I pulled up to the unmanned “honor” parking station inside the entrance and dutifully paid my entrance fee. As I stepped back into Scarlett another car pulled up behind me. I drove away down the winding road to the two parking lots and the restrooms building, not entirely sure what I would find at this park.

Werner-Boyce Salt Springs Park combines Florida history with “real” Florida nature. Part of the award-winning Florida state park system, this park promises a day filled with outdoor pleasures and a few educational nuggets.

Encompassing nearly 4,000 acres and four miles of coastline, Werner-Boyce is home to many of Florida’s iconic wildlife – otters, alligators, manatees, and gopher tortoises – and more than 150 bird species. The highlight of this park, however, is the salt marsh and the waterways that wind through it. While Werner-Boyce offers much to paddlers and hikers, if a beach is what you seek, you won’t find one along any of this coastline.

History of Werner-Boyce Salt Springs area

A Tocobaga Quarry

Archaeological evidence found on park lands indicate the Tocobaga Indians used the area as a quarry. They would have made stone tools, such as arrowheads and hand axes, from the limestone quarried there. No evidence has been found, though, to indicate that they lived in or around these salt marshes. The closest shell mound where a village was likely located is Oelsner Temple Mound two miles south on the south bank of the Pithlachascotee River.

Cattle Ranching Among the Salt Springs

In the 18th century, cattle ranching became big business for Spanish landowners and the Catholic missions. A cross between Andalusian and Caribbean cattle was likely brought to Florida by early conquistadors, and it’s thought that some of those escaped and became wild cattle. By the 1700s, domestic and wild cattle roamed through Florida’s wooded flatlands and grassy open wetlands.

After the British-Creek invasions of 1702-1704 decimated the Spanish herds, the Seminole Indians became the cattle barons of Florida. Their leader during this time attested to the cow’s importance to Seminoles; his name was Cowkeeper.

In the early 1800s, cattle ranchers in the Werner-Boyce area discovered the salt springs by accident. They observed that their cattle preferred certain springs over others and licked the rocks near the water. These were the salt springs. Salt became a valuable commodity for preserving fish and meat as well as a healing agent for wounds.

Salt During the Civil War

Salt production in Florida during the Civil War carried vital importance to the Confederacy. Though salt works were plentiful along the Florida coast, Union ships and troops easily targeted them through the smoke they produced. In order to make salt, the salt water from the springs was boiled over an open fire. Though the Union could find and destroy many of Florida’s salt works, the ones at Werner-Boyce were more difficult to locate. They were often located a mile or more inland from the open waters of the Gulf of Mexico, and soldiers had to board small boats and row through the winding creeks of the salt marshes to try to find them. As a result, the salt works on the Werner-Boyce property were some of the only salt works never destroyed during the Civil War.

Turpentine at Werner-Boyce Salt Springs

Another important product of the area during the 1800s was turpentine and a product called naval stores. Many pine trees on the Werner-Boyce property show evidence of turpentine production. Turpentine was made from pine sap, or gum, which was extracted by box cuts or, later, “cat faces” which drained the sap into cups. Turpentine was used for many things and was an important industry in the south until the 1940s.

Mullet Fishing

Starting in the 1920s, a new industry took hold in the area – mullet fishing. Mullet live in the shallow waters of salt marshes and generally live in large schools. The waters of the park would have provided tons of fish each year. Mullet is a greasy fish and is popular when smoked, particularly as a fish spread. When netting regulations changed in 1994, the mullet fishing industry all but died in the area. Werner-Boyce Salt Springs State Park pays homage to this important part of the area’s history with an ADA-accessible replica of a mullet boat.

Helping the World War II War Effort

During World War II, planes flying to nearby bases sometimes ended up in these waters. Others used the salt marshes for bombing practice or for testing grounds. Some of the small ponds found in the park are not natural. They are actually the bomb craters from this era.

Becoming a Park

Land began to be acquired in 1992 with purchases made through 2000. Much of the land was overrun with exotic plants or had the remnants of wars and development deals gone bad. Volunteers and staff worked hard (and continue to do so) to bring the park lands back to their natural state. Boardwalks and trails have been created to provide access to different areas of interest. Mobile birding stations educate visitors about the different birds which call the park home, and static displays showcase the park’s history.

Werner-Boyce Salt Springs State Park Today

After I paid the entrance fee and drove past the first parking lot, the one for the nature trails, I parked by the restrooms and the kayak launch. The restrooms are new, elevated with both stairs and a wrap-around ramp. This is the only place where you can also find water as the park doesn’t offer any concessions or vending machines. There are, however, two water fountains by the restrooms. This building serves as an observation tower as well, overlooking the salt marsh on three sides, including the waterways upon which kayakers set out on. I didn’t know it at the time; the north-facing side overlooks the nature trails.

At this building, I also found a butterfly garden ensconced in the niche provided by the stairs and ramp. Named Charlotte’s Butterfly Garden, it grows native butterfly-friendly plants like salvia and blanket flower plus displays a few pieces of art.

The park has also used the restroom’s exterior walls as an opportunity to educate the public about Florida’s springs. Educational posters on various topics are found throughout the park.

Kayaking at Werner-Boyce Salt Springs State Park

If a park has a kayak launch, I generally check it out right away. I’m always looking for new places to launch my kayak, Kiwi. Werner-Boyce offers a good kayak launch (ie, a shore launch not a dock from which I have dive into the kayak). The park leases out to an outfitter, Paddling Adventures, which rents kayaks and canoes. Every month the park also holds a guided kayaking trip through the waterways. If you plan to launch a kayak from Werner-Boyce, however, be prepared to walk several hundred feet from the parking lot, down the boardwalk, and over grass to get to the launch area.

The kayak launch is a distance from the parking lot, over a boardwalk and an unpaved path.

Hiking in Werner-Boyce Salt Springs State Park

Though the park officially opened to the public in 2001, it didn’t have a main entrance or the trails at that entrance until 2017. Until then, visitors had to use one of the two trailheads into the park. I chose to explore the trails at the main entrance for a couple of reasons – I prefer the convenience of restrooms, paved parking, etc; when I head out on nature trails, I want to see a variety of things; and I wanted to see the other things the park offers. I had intended to explore one or both of the trailheads; however, I spent more time at the main entrance trails than I intended to so I’ll have to go back to the trailheads another time.

If you’re a “city slicker” hiker like me, ie, 2-4 miles is your sweet spot, the Springs Trail will be great for you. It’s just long enough and offers a lot to see. In all, I walked about 2.5 miles on the Eagle Trail, Springs Trail, part of the Fire Line Trail, and Fisher’s Corner Trail. Adding all of the Fire Line Trail and the Reflection Springs Trail probably would have added another half mile or so.

For the trails, I moved Scarlett to the parking lot closests to those entrances. The Eagle Trail is to the south and is the shorter trail so I headed there first, camera bag on my back, camera in one hand and phone recording video in the other. It was barely 9 AM, and I chose to leave my water behind figuring it would come in handy when I got back to the car. I do that a lot and almost always regret it. Take the water with you. Lots of it. Even if it’s morning or winter. Thankfully there’s pretty good tree cover on many of the trails; however, this also means the cool breeze doesn’t penetrate the trees.

Another thing I immediately regretted was not dowsing myself in bug spray. Mosquitoes would have been bad enough, but I was attacked by biting flies. They were relentless, especially closer to the marshes. Thankfully, they only hung out along some parts of the trails so I found relief simply by walking away.

Eagle Trail

Eagle Trail is approximately a half mile out round trip. I haven’t found any reliable source of exactly where the trail goes after it meets the bench and mobile birding platform at the service road. The day I visited the gate to the service road was open though a sign on the gate said to keep out of the nesting area so… The trail winds briefly through pine flatwoods and branches off at one spot to overlook a small pond.

Springs Trails

The north side of the parking lot and entrance road offers a number of trails and the sites that most people come for, the springs. If you’ve seen other Florida springs, you might expect the bright blue and clear water typical of a freshwater spring. These, however, are salt springs formed by seawater trapped deep beneath the surface which bubbles up through cracks in the limestone. These springs are mostly “dirty” looking, yet still beautiful in their own right.

Two springs greet hikers at the entrance to the nature trail. To the left, Calderon Spring which has a lovely run to the other waterways in the park. To the right, Toilet Bowl Spring, so named because it slowly spins in a little whirlpool. Toilet Bowl Spring also offers a picnic area with several tables, a little library, and lots of shade.

I headed straight up the wide grassy trail, past pine trees and palm trees and several different kinds of understory shrubs native to Florida. Signs along the path point out different native plants. At a fork in the road, I found a bunny eating grass. It didn’t flinch at my photos or even at the two dogs who passed by with their human as I took photos.

A ways down the path, I passed the sign for Reflection Spring and decided to come to it (I didn’t) then came to T in the path. One side to the Springs Trail and the other to Fisher’s Corner. This junction also contains an interesting display, a person-sized replica of an eagle’s nest with posters providing information about eagles. A eagle bench provides a place to sit and relax. I imagine families with kids find this crossroads a fun place to spend a few minutes as kids play in the nest and pretend to be eagles.

On the trail again, I headed for Salt Springs first. The trails in the park are well-marked and most of them loop back on themselves. It would be nearly impossible to get lost, especially as you can’t simply step off the trail into the woods. The brush is just too thick for that.

A few minutes later I come upon Salt Springs. If it weren’t for the sign, you’d miss it, and though the spring’s information is interesting, it’s just not much to look at it.

Despite it’s rather bland appearance, the spring’s information surprised me. It plunges to a depth of more than 300 feet. The nearby mangrove tunnel and tidal waterfall (which is only visible at low tide) turned out to be much prettier, showing off the beauty of Florida’s estuarine waterways.

This part of the park holds an outdoor amphitheater with wood benches where staff deliver presentations about Florida’s salt springs and Native American history in the area. Behind the amphitheater sits a salt works display which explains how the salt works operated and the importance of salt.

On a whim, I followed a newer path – the Cypress Oak Trail – which led to the Fire Line Trail. By the time the trail dropped me off by the eagle’s nest, I needed water. The rest of the trails became a quick walk-through to see them briefly and take a few photos. The Red Spring Trail branches off from Fisher’s Corner and ends at a larger lake.

Fisher’s Corner offered a covered picnic table, trail cam, and a tube to dispose of fishing line. This corner marks the junction between a creek and a larger lake, a likely spot for fish to wander through. A lure stuck in a tree told me others have tried fishing there though I’m not sure how much success anyone found.

The trail wound south following the general line of the creek, passing through more marsh, until it came to the Calderon Spring run where it turned back to the main nature trail. Stakes along this trail indicate that the park plans to continue expanding its network of trails. Once complete, this part of the park will have several miles of trail to explore.

Once on the main trail, I took a quick peek at Toilet Bowl Spring. It looks better on video than in photos, then quickly headed for the car and cold water. It was not yet 11 AM. It’s a lovely park and one I plan to come back to soon to explore further. With plenty of water and bug spray and maybe even lunch.

Plan Your Visit to Werner-Boyce Salt Springs State Park

There isn’t a lot to plan yet here’s some information you need to know before you go.

How do I get to Werner-Boyce?

The park has three entrances – a main entrance and two trailheads:

• Main entrance: 8737 US 19, Port Richey
• Scenic Drive Trailhead: 10333 Scenic Drive, Port Richey
• Black Rail Trailhead: 6641 State Road 52, Port Richey

How much does it cost to enter?

Admission is by the honor system whereby you deposit your cash in an envelope and keep the tag to hang on your rearview mirror. You can also pay online before you go and print the receipt to put on your dashboard. The fee at all three locations is $2 for pedestrian or bicycle and $3 for a car with up to 8 people.

What should I bring with me?

If you’re only using the nature trails:

• Water. Do NOT forget your water
• Bug spray
• Camera/phone to take photos
• Sunscreen

If you’re going kayaking, bring all of the above plus:

• Hat and sunglasses
• Lunch and/or a snacks depending on how long you plan to be on the water
• All of your normal safety equipment

Where can I stay near the park?

There are several hotels and motels in Port Richey.

Thank you so much for joining me on this tour of another beautiful Florida state park. Please let me know in the comments if you’ve visited this park and what you thought of it. I’d also love to know which state park is your favorite! Until next time…

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